martedì 31 dicembre 2013

YSL KOUROS: 5-batches blind test (year 2013)


kouros


Don't waste so many words. KOUROS is one of the Myths: unique, hated and loved, beyond any measure.
About Kouros reformulations, volumes have been written, but this is not the place to talk about it. In this test we want to compare the last decade of Kouros editions, from 2003 to 2013, to check if the heavy perfume reformulations occurred during recent years, ruined or improved, or didn't have effect at all, on this superb scent.

venerdì 27 dicembre 2013

Low-cost perfumes, anyone?



Raiders of the lost scent


So many, many discussions about it, just take a trip on Google to find a lot of infos. We are speaking about the famous-infamous "supermarket perfumes beating designer scents".
In summary, a well-known supermarket brand decided to produce their own scents, with only one rule: producing a perfume with a final price "less than five Euros" (4 UK pounds, or 7 US dollars), all inclusive, and on-par (same quality) with well-known designer scents.
The maximum of the trick was a sort of "blind tests" using original designer scents, asking a group of volunteers "what's the best perfume?". Well, the results was that at least 50 % of people said that best perfumes were the supermarket ones (the designer scents used for blind tests were Coco Mademoiselle by Chanel, and Hugo Boss Bottled , both with a considerably higher price than "supermarket" ones). 

Well, let's make the same thing. 
In this test it was decided to repeat the same experiment: on the first side there are the two supermarket perfumes, namely Suddenly Madame Glamour and X -Bolt (total cost: less than ten Euros), on the other side there are samples of Chanel and Hugo Boss.

mercoledì 18 dicembre 2013

Dior Homme Intense: updates.


I'm in France, and this afternoon I entered in a Dior boutique, where I find on the shelves both Dior Homme and Dior Homme Intense testers, just arrived, unboxed, batched 3X02 (October 2013).
( about "batch-numbers", see here  for "Christian Dior")
I was a bit perplexed:  the Homme Intense juice seemed significantly lighter than the Homme.
I asked permission to shot a few pictures with a whiter background, a neutral, and a darker background.
Dior Homme Intense appears very clear, almost transparent.
Dior Homme is Green-Yellow.
I'm concerned by the DHI color.
*apparently* smell like the previous "year 2013" batches, i.e very good.
Unfotunately I coudn't have an accurate test inside the boutique, so I'll prepare a thorogh review soon. I'm only a bit perplexed with all these variations.

dior

domenica 15 dicembre 2013

Thought of the Day (December 16th, 2013)



luca turin

"Bear in mind, I have been off the radar screen for several years, since 2008. Part of the reason I felt like I had to, you know, get away from it for a while was the tremendously depressing impression that perfumery was a field of ruins (...) on the one hand, the great classics were being systematically destroyed—for no good reason. And on the other hand, the new creations—with notable exceptions, of course—were cut and paste compositions that imitate the competition. It all converged into a sort of blah nothingness." 
(Luca Turin)

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


"Sono stato lontano dalle scene per diversi anni, dal 2008 in poi; e parte del motivo è stato che mi volevo allontanare, almeno per un pò, da quello che mi sembrava il panorama deprimente di una profumeria ridotta ormai un cumulo di rovine (...) da una parte i grandi classici venivano sistematicamente distrutti senza una vera ragione, dall'altra parte i nuovi profumi -con qualche eccezione- parevano ideati lì per lì per imitare altri profumi concorrenti. E così facendo, sembrava che tutto fosse vacuo e futile, nel mondo della profumeria" (Luca Turin)  
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

sabato 14 dicembre 2013

OPIUM pour Homme EDP: still in production.


How many times we heard: Oh, the beautiful Opium pour Homme, Eau de Parfum version (not the EdT), what a great perfume! now sadly discontinued...
WRONG.
Opium pour Homme EdP is still in production as you can see in this picture ( I am the photographer ) shot inside a Yves Saint Laurent boutique. It's a 62Kxxx batch, so = year 2013. The EdP version is still on production but only in limited quantities. Strangely, it is availble only in the tiny 50ml (1.7 oz. ) bottle.
(how to recognize YSL perfumes: see here )
What about smell? Well, I was in a hurry and didn't test it thoroughly, but it seems not with the same strenght and potency as in the older vintage versions. Sorry to say this, guys, the 2013 EdP is not a bad perfume, but it seems much lighter than the original.

opium edp
Opium pour Homme, EdP version
 = still in production, year 2013

venerdì 13 dicembre 2013

BULGARI BLACK: it's not discontinued.


Bulgari Black, discontined or not? Available? Not available?
Here's the proof, you can see a sealed box and bottle of "Black", with the batch-number sporting the letter D. It means year 2013.
(how to recognize Bulgari perfumes: here )
So, it's still in production, although in limited quantities.
Note the long "list of restricted ingredients" is not listed anymore on the sticker, but on the side of the box.
What about smell? Luckily, for the lovers of this fragrance, it's still "Black", but it's a bit watered down in a side-by-side confrontation with the original from 1998.



bulgari black
Bulgari Black, batch number with letter D
=year 2013

lunedì 9 dicembre 2013

How to recognize "VanCleef & Arpels" perfumes.


raidersofthelostscent.blogspot.it

                        Van Cleef & Arpels
"Van Cleef&Arpels" is a "Great and Complicated" (at the same time) Perfume House. 
"Great" because produced great -really great- perfumes: "First" (1976), "Pour Homme" (1978), and "Gem" (1987), to name the most famous.
But it is "complicated", too, because there are some difficulties in recognizing date of production of perfumes, especially the older ones. Box and labels can be sometimes really hard to understand, batch numbers have 3,4,5 or even more digits. Sometimes there is no label on the bottle, and you can get some clues from boxes.
Here are some useful tips to date "Van Cleef&Arpels" perfumes.

sabato 7 dicembre 2013

High cost perfumes, and what about packaging?


CHRISTMAS 2013

Creed perfumes on exhibition in a perfumery shop (picture)
Can you imagine the opinion of the casual buyer, looking for perfumes?
If I have to pay big money for a perfume, can I at least ask for labels that don't detach?
Next step for high perfumery: good quality self-adhesive labels.
(Picture shot on Friday 6th, december 2013)

raiders
Detaching front labels on perfume box.

mercoledì 4 dicembre 2013

Chamade VS Chamade




Raiders of the lost scent


Raiders

raidersofthelostscent

Raiders of the lost scent



Chamade is one of the great classics of perfumery. Period.
Today, it seems a scent partially out of time, a bit "old" and a bit "modern" at the same time, but due to this ambivalence Chamade has a great value, because it was built with a particular mindset: being "modern" without abandoning the "old" style.

martedì 3 dicembre 2013

Christmas 2013: Hard Discounting Perfumes.....


Christmas 2013: lowering and lowering prices.
Strolling on, along the streets, you can find so many advertisement about "discounted perfumes". 
It's the crisis, it's the overwhelming offer, it's "Sales" time.


Raiders

(price in Euros)

lunedì 2 dicembre 2013

The Beginning of Oud





Raiders of the lost scent


A few readers asked to know when the "Oud Wave" began, and when the use of "Oud" in western perfumes started.
An answer is not so easy, because the more time passes, the more new discoveries come out. It seems everyone was involved in Oud affair, a few years ago.

sabato 30 novembre 2013

Low-cost Oud: something that's worth it?


Oud.jpg



A partially Off-Topic post, since it is not about vintage perfumes, but in this Christmas atmosphere could be useful. 
How is Oud fashionable in these days ? A lot, and perhaps too much...

giovedì 28 novembre 2013

Christmas 2013...


Here you can see what happened during Christmas when perfumes have poor sales.
Overwhelmed with heavy discounts (prices in Euros)

raidersofthelostscent

martedì 26 novembre 2013

Quantifying the amount of a perfume.




Quantifying perfume inside bottles: a practical method.
You bought a perfume or a tester in a non-sealed bottle, or an "used" one.
Or you bought online a perfume sold as "new" and "mint", and you want to check it.
Is the perfume you bought really "new"? Or, if it's "used", how much perfume does it remain in the bottle?

Thought of the Day (26th Nov 2013)



raiders


"When I started my interest in perfumes, I remember people said: 'Guerlain? Ah, these Guerlain scents, today.... are not as good as they used to be'. Well, this happened in 1975.
Today, a perfume by Guerlain dated 'year 1975' could be considered as liquid gold".
(Luca Turin)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

"Quando cominciai ad interessarmi di profumi, ricordo molto bene che si diceva: Guerlain? Eh, i suoi profumi non sono più buoni, come quelli di una volta....
Era il 1975. Oggi, un profumo di Guerlain del 1975 è da considerarsi oro liquido." (Luca Turin)

domenica 24 novembre 2013

Guerlain LIDGE: reformulated? A 5-samples blind test.






L' Instant De Guerlain Extreme pour Homme (i.e. LIDGE), is the "Eau de Parfum
 version" of L'Instant de Guerlain (LIDG), two men's fragrances contending the "Trophy of Rivalry" with "Dior Homme" highly-acclaimed twins. But let's face it, both Dior and Guerlain are excellent, and none is better than the other.
What we want to investigate about, however, is the (alleged) "LIDGE reformulation", which (allegedly) took place at an unspecified time, around 2011 or 2012. True or false ?

sabato 23 novembre 2013

Keep your Eyes closed.





Try an experiment: in a crowded and noisy room, try to listen to the person in front of you, keeping your eyes open, and then keeping your eyes closed. Is there any difference ?
Of course: you get the impression to hear better.

venerdì 22 novembre 2013

OPIUM: Vintage Bottles Parade.



opium YSL

"It will be the Greatest, and
we will call it Opium"  
(Yves Saint Laurent, 1976)


A show trying to identify Opium bottles through the years.
(Warning: for more infos about YSL batch-numbers and codes, see here )

OPIUM 
date launch: year 1977.
Status: still in production. 
1977- 1986: Bottles and boxes with "Yves Saint Laurent, Paris" label style
1986- 1993: Bottles and boxes with "YSL Parfums Corp." and/or "N.Y, Paris" label
1993- 1999: Bottles and boxes with "Sanofi" label. (Sanofi Era started in 1993, ended in 1999)
1999- 2007: Bottles and boxes with "YSL Parfums" and "Neuilly" label ( PPR-GUCCI Era)
(since 2004: 4-digits i.e. 1 number + 3 letters batch code)
(since 2005: long list of "ingredients" printed on boxes)
2008- 2011: Bottles and boxes with generic "YSL" label (without the word "Parfums") AND the "B.R.I" (l'Oreal). label
since 2011: Bottles and boxes with "YSL Beaute" label
(Warning: during transition periods, box and labels were mixed up, and used incorrectly)

giovedì 21 novembre 2013

The Art of (Vintage) Layering





" Layering " is the action of "putting layers" (or stratifying) on top of something else.
In perfumery we speak about "layering" when we want to achieve new effects or even "create" new perfumes, simply applying a perfume, and then another just over the previous different scent.
You can "layer perfumes" by adding some sweet to harsh, dry scents, resulting with (theoretically) infinite combinations.
But "Layering" is an amazing resource for another reason, namely to "simulate" , with excellent results, vintage perfumes. How it works? It 's quite easy .

martedì 19 novembre 2013

"OPIUM by YSL". Year 2013, 11 batches blind-test.



raidersofthelostscent



OPIUM by Yves Saint Laurent. 
the Agony and the Ecstasy of every fragrance-enthusiast.

The history of the "reformulations" involving Opium started many years ago -probably in the mid-80s- but only since 2008-2009 it began a serious -very serious- question.
Reformulations since 2008-2009 were one of the most hot and.discussed topics, and you can find dozens of articles over the Net about it. All contributors, however, agree on a fact: Opium is no longer the same scent than before, opulent, rich and magnificent, a real symbol of a Golden Era.
The aspect we want to explore, however, is an alleged "Year 2013 Reformulation" that - according to some people- made Opium coming back to its ancient days and former glory. True or false?

lunedì 18 novembre 2013

The Art of Progressive Smelling


Raidersothelostscent (unknown copyright, taken from web)


Does a simple way to study the evolution of a fragrance exist?
Of course it exists, and it does not require any special equipment but the perfume, a clock and some patience.
The technique of "Progressive Smelling" involves spraying perfume at different times and in different places....but smelling it at the same time.

giovedì 14 novembre 2013

mercoledì 13 novembre 2013

"DIOR HOMME" : 9-batches blind test


dior homme intense


For the DIOR HOMME INTENSE tests see here
For the batch-numbers code ("Christian Dior"), see here
For the "Year 2014" update, see here.


Dior Homme, the Eau de Toilette launched in 2005, had a lot of controversies similarly to its bigger brother EdP "Homme Intense", because of a "reformulation" that took place during previous years (as in the "Intense" version) and sparked speculations of all kinds (and hoarding, and obviously price increases).
In this article, an analysis of the alleged differences between the various years of "Dior Homme" will occur, using a total of NINE different bottles from 2005 up to 2013.

martedì 12 novembre 2013

How to recognize BVLGARI Perfumes


Bulgari

HOW TO RECOGNIZE BVLGARI PERFUMES.


Previously we recognized, batch-by-batch, year-by-year:
-GUERLAIN perfumes ( here )
-YVES SAINT LAURENT perfumes ( here )
-CHRISTIAN  DIOR perfumes  ( here )
-ARMANI Perfumes ( here
-CHANEL ( here )
Now we will consider another House: Bulgari

lunedì 11 novembre 2013

CERRUTI pour FEMME (1987)


raiders of the lost scent


raiders of the lost scent
from Parfumo.net


Year: 1987
Top notes: coriander, bergamot, plum; 
Middle notes: carnation, jasmine, ylang-ylang, tuberose, rose, honey; 
Base notes: vetiver, musk, sandalwood, oakmoss, cedar, vanille.
Longevity: at least 7 hrs. Sillage: very high.
Rating: 9.5/10

ABSTRACT Sadly discontinued -and very hard to find now at decent prices- it was considered by connoisseurs as a luxury alternative for Dior's Poison (1985); but at the same time it was considered -by detractors- only as an elegant "spin-off" from Clandestine (by Guy Laroche, 1986) 
In any case, luxury and elegance were qualities typical of "Cerruti pour Femme" (1987).

lunedì 4 novembre 2013

Thought for the Day.





"Today, in 2013, there are more people writing about perfume than about wine. That is shocking. It's become a sort of minor industry."   (Luca Turin)

-----------------------
"Oggi, nel 2013, c'è in giro più gente che scrive a proposito di profumi di quanta ve ne sia a scrivere sui vini. E' una cosa incredibile; sta diventando una sorta di professione." 
(Luca Turin)
-----------------------

domenica 3 novembre 2013

How to recognize GIORGIO ARMANI perfumes.




armani



HOW TO RECOGNIZE ARMANI PERFUMES
Previously we considered how to recognize, batch-by-batch, year-by-year:
-GUERLAIN perfumes ( here )
-YVES SAINT LAURENT perfumes ( here )
-CHRISTIAN DIOR  perfumes  ( here )
-VAN CLEEF et ARPELS perfumes ( here )
-CHANEL perfumes ( here )
-BVLGARI perfumes ( here )
-HERMES perfumes ( here )
-VERSACE perfumes ( here )
now we'll consider another great House: Giorgio Armani Parfums.

venerdì 1 novembre 2013

From Splash to Spray.


splash



At the end of the Fifties the first spray bottles appeared, gas-powered, ( called "atomiseur", or "gas-propellant sprays") , but the real success of this innovative system arrived only in the Eighties, with the advent of "natural spray" system, which did not involve artificial gases, prohibited by law.
Since the Eighties “splash” bottles experienced a gradual decline, until disappearing -almost completely- at the end of the Nineties. In 2000s splash bottles were very rare, except for the aftershaves, and now virtually extinct, except for special cases (usually limited edition bottles).

mercoledì 30 ottobre 2013

MITSOUKO year 2013: does the Empress strike back?


mitsouko


ABSTRACT
Mitsouko, the "Mysterious", the Empress of Perfumes.... it's one of the true "legendary" perfumes, produced by Guerlain since 1919.
Superb, immediately recognizable, Mitsouko was subject to many reformulations, including a particularly critical one that took place around 2007-8, which significantly changed the perfume.

giovedì 24 ottobre 2013

OPIUM: the Last Stand.



opium

" It will be the world's best fragrance, and we call it ... Opium "
( Yves Saint Laurent , 1977)


Opium is not a perfume, it is a true Legend. 
Smelling Opium -at least once- is absolutely an imperative for anyone even vaguely interested in perfumery. Its unmistakable aroma marked an Era, and ruled for at least two decades.
Unfortunately, at a certain point something happened, and the scent was no longer the Wonder that was before, and what we used to.

mercoledì 23 ottobre 2013

DIOR HOMME INTENSE : 4-batches review.



diot


Dior Homme, in the EDP ("Intense") version, launched in 2007, had a lot of controversies in the past two years , when it was said that this perfume had been "drastically reformulated".
The fact took place in second half of 2011: in that year there were slightly changes in outer packages, and some details of the bottles changed, too.
The "reformulation" news sparked a wave of frenzy and rushes to buy bottles of  "vintage" Dior Homme Intense ("vintage" is an unusual term here, since we're talking about a perfume launched in 2007... ), resulting in increased prices and speculations of all kinds.
In this article, a possibly accurate analysis of the alleged differences between the various "vintages" of Dior Homme Intense will occur, using two bottles for the period alleged "pre-reformulation ", and two for the same period post-reformulation .

martedì 22 ottobre 2013

STORIE SCELLERATE #2

(italian only text)

raiders


Siamo seduti intorno al tavolo del caffè in tre. Il profumiere, anziano, sua moglie parimenti anziana, e il sottoscritto. Il tavolo è grande, li ho di fronte tutti e due, e mentre parlo con la signora, una donna esuberante e gioviale, a proposito dei vecchi profumi "dei tempi suoi", noto con la coda dell’occhio il marito che vorrebbe dir qualcosa, ma poi all’ultimo momento si trattiene. Tipico del “sto per dirti qualcosa che forse non ti piacerà”. Ecco, come al solito.

lunedì 21 ottobre 2013

MISSONI (The original) by Missoni,1982.


Raiders of the Lost Scent


YEAR: 1982
Top: Bergamot, Hyacynth, Cassia, Aldehydes, Raspberry
Middle: Rose, Geranium, Ylang-Ylang, Iris, Jasmin
Base: Honey, Oakmoss, Civet, Amber, Patchouly, Styrax.
Longevity: at least 10 hours
Sillage Great.
Season: Autumn/Winter
Rating: 9/10

ABSTRACT
"When the colors become scents" "Do something colorful" " said advertisement from the Eighties.
Ah, those marvelous taglines: other times, other perfumery.

venerdì 18 ottobre 2013

VENDETTA pour Homme (Valentino, 1991)



Raiders of the Lost Scent


Year: 1991
Top:  Verbena, Neroli, Lavender, Bergamot, Basil, Coriander, Aldehydes
Middle: Clove, Geranium, Jasmin, Cedar, Vetiver, Cinnamon, Bay-Rum
Base: Patchouli, Oakmoss, Musk, Labdanum, Musk, Amber, TonkaBean, Benzoin
Parfumeur: Edouard Flèchier
Longevity: about 5-6 hours
Sillage:: high. 
Rating: 8.5/10

Famous stylist and designer Valentino is known  in perfumery, according to some, as "the one who missed the boat ". Terms may be too drastic to indicate a Maison which, while other scents hit the market repeatedly, remained motionless and almost detached from the games.

lunedì 14 ottobre 2013

BEL AMI (Hermès,1986)


Hermes BelAmi


Year: 1986
Top: Lemon, Cardamon, Sage, Orange, Bergamot
Middle: Ylang-ylang, Iris, Basil, Carnation, Jasmin, Patchouli, Cedar
Base: Vanilla, Sandalwood, Vetyver, Leather, Coconut, Oakmoss, Amber, Styrax
Perfumer: JeanLouis Sieuzac
VOTO: 10/10


ABSTRACT: There is no need to ask Guy de Maupassant : even without the encouragement of the famous French writer , BelAmi has been a fabulous scent of the '80s, with rare elegance, still in production (although reformulated).

giovedì 10 ottobre 2013

RotLS on Facebook


Raiders of the Lost Scent on Facebook NOW !

Raiders of the Lost Scent adesso anche su Facebook


(work in progress...)

domenica 6 ottobre 2013

How to recognize GUERLAIN perfumes.



Raiders of the Lost Scent



(disclaimer: these pages are not for commercially purposes; we are truly, genuine fragrance lovers examining hundreds of perfumes to understand the "meaning" of batch numbers, and here are the results)

Here we are going to investigate the -historically- most famous perfume house: Guerlain.
It's a bit difficult task, because Guerlain adopted several "letters and numbers", different boxes, and complicate batch-codes,  indicating "Years" and "Months". So, we should have a look at: boxes, labels, symbols and perfume "launch date", simultaneously, to obtain an additional help.
(Please note: in this guide you will find hints to date all Guerlain perfumes since 1976. For older perfumes since 1930, read HERE

How to recognize GUERLAIN perfumes.



Raiders of the Lost Scent



(disclaimer: these pages are not for commercially purposes; we are truly, genuine fragrance lovers examining hundreds of perfumes to understand the "meaning" of batch numbers, and here are the results)

Here we are going to investigate the -historically- most famous perfume house: Guerlain.
It's a bit difficult task, because Guerlain adopted several "letters and numbers", different boxes, and complicate batch-codes,  indicating "Years" and "Months". So, we should have a look at: boxes, labels, symbols and perfume "launch date2, simultaneously, to obtain an additional help.

mercoledì 2 ottobre 2013

RUMBA (Balenciaga,1988)



Raiders of the Lost Scent


Year: 1988
Top: Bergamot, Raspberry, Plum, Orange Blossom, Peach, Basil
Middle: Honey, Gardenia, Tuberose, Carnation, Heliotrope, Marigold, Jasmine, Magnolia, Orchid
Base: Styrax, Leather, Vanilla, Sandalwood, Musk, Amber, Cedar, Oakmoss, Patchouli.
Perfumers: Ron Winnegrad and JeanClaude Ellena
VOTO: 9/10


ABSTRACT  -"Blast from the Past" - This is a female fragrance by Balenciaga launched during 1988. Did I say "fragrance"? Let's be honest, this was not just a perfume: this was an olfactive cannon shot.
If you want to go unnoticed, Rumba definitely is not the perfume right for you; but if you want the whole world to turn towards you, this is the scent.

martedì 1 ottobre 2013

How to recognize CHRISTIAN DIOR perfumes.







ABSTRACT:
Previously we recognized year-by-year the following:
-GUERLAIN perfumes ( here )
-YVES SAINT LAURENT perfumes ( here )
-GIORGIO ARMANI perfumes ( here )
-VAN CLEEF et ARPELS perfumes ( here )
-CHANEL perfumes ( here )
-BVLGARI perfumes ( here )
-HERMES perfumes ( here )

Now, let's consider another great House.
Christian Dior's are among the most famous (and counterfeited…) scents in the whole world and, unfortunately, will give you some trouble when you want to determine the manifacturing years.
Difficulties derive from the unusual batch code system - and to the fact that until 1995 Christian Dior in many cases did not carved or printed serial numbers on the box, as many other houses did, but only by printing it on the external cellophane/wrap membrane. This means that when you remove the cellophane, the batch number is lost. 
Plus, consider that printed numbers on cellophane are easily erased......
Fortunately, the " batch-code" , i.e. the serial number , was also printed on the bottom of the bottle.
As always, the most important thing in “guessing a date” on a bottle is not knowing the exact month and year , but the historical period.
Old perfumes were usually made using the best materials, and without being subject to restrictions whatsoever. 
As commonly said, "the older, the better"

giovedì 26 settembre 2013

QUIPROQUO, Grès (1976)




Raiders of the Lost Scent


Year: 1976
Top notes: Citrus
Mid notes: Spices
Base notes: Woods
Parfumeur: Robert Gonnon
VOTO : 8/10

Abstract: Created by Robert Gonnon, one of the most famous noses of the seventies (AnaisAnais by Cacharel, Empreinte by Courregès, Metal by Paco Rabanne, Sikkim by Lancome, O de Lancome....), this almost unknown scent of the house Grès has a name very apt: "Quiproquo" (it's Latin for "swap two things each other "): in fact, despite being classified as "for women", is a perfume quietly ... masculine. It's perfectly unisex.

lunedì 23 settembre 2013

The Magnificent 26: "The Last Warning".





(Abstract:
During 2003 the EU announced the New Cosmetics Directive (the Old one dating from 1976) to make it more in step with the current times. In the New Directive, namely the "Directive 2003/15/EC" (amending Directive 76/768/EEC) is the rule of mandatory labeling for 26 substances potentially involved with allergies.

domenica 22 settembre 2013

BALENCIAGA "Cialenga" (1973)



                            Raiders of the Lost Scent



YEAR: 1973

Top notes: citruses, black currant, green notes;
Middle notes: iris, jasmine, ylang-ylang, clove, rose, lily;
Base notes: Vetyver, sandalwood, patchouli, oakmoss, virginia cedar.
Perfumer: Jacques Jantzen


(ABSTRACT: 
"Cialenga", by Balenciaga: forty years tribute (1973-2013)
Probably it was not the most celebrated women's fragrance by Balenciaga, comparing with LeDix and Quadrille, but it was a wonderful scent. Moreover, when it comes to Balenciaga, any scent is wonderful and remarkable.
Many times we hear -speaking about fragrances- "vintage" lovers are always exaggerating, talking nonsense about alleged "Golden Age" that in fact never existed. Well, Cialenga, as virtually all the old Balenciagas, is an excellent demonstration of the contrary.

martedì 17 settembre 2013

How to recognize YVES SAINT LAURENT perfumes





Previously we recognized, year-by-year all these famous brands:
-GUERLAIN perfumes ( here )
-CHRISTIAN  DIOR perfumes  ( here )
-GIORGIO ARMANI Perfumes ( here )
-VAN CLEEF et ARPELS perfumes ( here )
-CHANEL perfumes ( here )
-BVLGARI perfumes ( here )
-HERMES perfumes ( here )

But what about Yves Saint Laurent ?
Well, you should look at the labels, the stickers, the technical symbols, and batch-code numbers.
The problem -especially for Yves  Saint Laurent scents- is the confusing amount of many different labels, numbers, symbols and codes.
To recognize YSL scents, it is necessary to know the history of the House, because boxes, labels, symbols, etc., reflect the different historical periods.
This should be pretty simple, but it isn't: actually the labels, the stickers and the boxes, were messed up during transition periods, and made things difficult to understand.
So let's go and try to solve the mystery.

sabato 14 settembre 2013

ADAM, Eau de Bruyère/Bruyère (1973-1985).



Raiders of the lost scent


(ABSTRACT The story of ADAM is an unbelievable one: one of the most famous Italian perfume factory , based in Parma , active since the Thirties, still in the early '70s was one of the most famous and noble houses. ADAM ceased all activities in 1985, and since then -literally- disappeared . Even today, you can hardly find any information about ADAM, even surfing on the web.

mercoledì 11 settembre 2013

VERSACE The Dreamer ("Nebula edition", 1996)




VERSACE, The Dreamer
Year 1996
Notes: - variable according to the source-

ABSTRACT: The Dreamer" was practically the last scent directly supervised by Gianni Versace before his death in 1997, along with "Jeans". Around this scent everything has been said, and the opposite of everything: many talks about its olfactory pyramid (on the web you will find the most diverse compositions for this perfume!), its relative similarity with Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme, that came out two years earlier; about the tobacco-or-not-tobacco discussion, until to the "ruining" reformulation happened in 2008. Leaving aside all these useless discussions, The Dreamer was a prominent male-flowery scent, with "smoky" elements, and a strong inclination towards the tobacco leaf (not the classic pipe-tobacco note). Some people founfd it a malancholic  scent; others descrided it as sex-in-a-bottle. As you can see, it's a real Dreamer: you can have all dreams you want.
After the application, the first few minutes are rough and harsh, then turned in a warm and smooth aroma. Very nice box, and a marvelous crystal bottle, a real piece of art. Here is reviewed the first bottle produced in 1996: the "Nebula" version, both AfterShave and Eau de Toilette.

martedì 10 settembre 2013

HOW TO MAKE A (serious) BLIND TEST





(ABSTRACT: A "blind" test is essential to really understand what you're smelling.
That is, your target is to recognize, in a incontrovertible way, if there are differences between the scents you are considering; or no difference at all.
Are we smelling the same scent? and in the same intensity, nuances, and strength ?
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