mercoledì 10 gennaio 2018

A letter from an ex-Guerlain employee

A very important number:
the Formula.

(UPDATE: this is the Part 1. 
You can find the Part 2 here , with more questions and answers about vintage fragrances)

On October, 2017, I received this letter about "reformulations", via a common friend. It is incredibly interesting and deserves the publication. It could be of some interest for all Guerlain enthusiasts. Anyway, it's really intriguing.
Sincerely yours,
Laura Alessi 

(translated from french)

I read the articles written by your group, about the reformulations occurred in many perfumes: since I worked at Guerlain for a few years, I could give my contribution and suggest you a little trick. You don't need to collect and examine samples, batch-by-batch, and smell many stripes to determine if a reformualation occurred. It's quite time-consuming and in most cases, not really useful.  
There is a faster and more effective way to determine if a reformulation occurred. As you should know, all cosmetics since year 2003-2004 have to indicate the "allergens list" on the box. 
Since then, all LVMH perfumes (Guerlain, Dior, etc...) indicate the allergens, in conjunction with a particular progressive number evidencing the formula of each product. So, you will read different numbers for aftershaves, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, parfum, etc. 
Each number = a "recipe". 
So,when a reformulation occurs, the "recipe" changes, and you will read a different number. 
Collecting several boxes through the years, you will read different numbers ...and consequently you can spot on the reformulations.
There is no reason to smell several samples to guess if a change happened or not: simply look at the number on the box.
At Guerlain, the biggest part of reformulations happened since 2007. Please note this doesn't mean the new formulations are worse or better than the older. We at Guerlain were very strict on quality, and we put every attention in reformulations, I can guarantee it to you. You couldn't even notice any difference. Simply, check out the Formula on the corner of the box, and you will notice all reformulations. 

Since the numbers are in progressive order, with some experience you will be able to obtain all the infos you want, simply reading the batch code (year of production) and the formula. and guessing the date/type of reformulation of your own bottle"

Very, *very* roughly, these are the numbers:
between 0 and 2999 : years 2003-2006
between 3000 and 5999: year 2007-2010
between 6000 and 7999: years 2011-2014
between 8000 and 11000 : years 2015 - 2017.

Example of the "Formulas": Shalimar, bottles from year 2005.
EdP (922M), and EdT (915M)

Don't consider letters after numbers.

Here, some Formulas: 
a few numbers could be missing
(**UPDATED: October 2019**)
(thanks to Guirlande, CattLo8, Gabichou, Hymnos, chez Beaute-test)
Apres l'Ondee
before 2007 : 955M (EdT)
reformulated in 2007: 03637M (EdT)
reformulated in 2013:  07545M (EdT)

Apres l'Ondee, EdT year 2005, formula 955M

Apres l'Ondee, EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2010), 
formula 03637M

before 2007:  904M (EdT), 917M (EdP), 985M (Parfum)
reformulated in 2007: 03679M (EdP)
reformulated in 2010:  5623M (Parfum), 5636M (EdT)
reformulated in 2012: 7659 (Parfum)
reformulated in 2015: 9590M (EdT)
(EdP discontinued in 2016)
Chamade EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2005),
formula 904M 

Chamade EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2007), 
formula 03679M

Chamade Parfum (bottle in this picture: year 2010), 
formula 05623M

Chamade EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2017), formula 9590M

Champs Elysees
before 2007: 918M (Parfum), ???(EdT), ??? (EdP)
reformulated in 2007:  3696M (EdT), 4731M (EdP)
reformulated in 2009: 5032M (Parfum)

ChampsElysees, Parfum, batch 6J01 (2006), formula  918M

Chant d'Aromes
before 2007: 90x (EdT)
reformulated in 2010: 06727M (EdT)
reformulated in 2015: 08424M (EdT)
then reformulated in 2017: 10518 (EdT)

Chant d'Aromes, EdT, formula 06727M


Eau de Cologne du Coq
before 2007 : ???
reformulated in 2007:  03067M
reformulated in 2016: 09981M

Eau de Cologne du Coq, formula 03067M

Eau de Cologne Imperiale
before 2007:  908M
reformulated in 2015:  9562M

Eau de Cologne Imperiale, (bottle in this picture: year 2004), 
formula 908M

Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat
before 2007 :  ???
then reformulated in 2007:  3066M
then reformulated in 2017: 11252

Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat, (bottle in this picture: year 2010), 
formula 3066M

Eau de Guerlain
before 2007:  907M
reformulated in 2015:  8940M
reformulated in 2017: 10932

Guerlain Homme 
launched in 2008 (EdT):  ???
launched in 2009 (EdP):   4545M
reformulated in 2017:   10943  (as "EdP Intense")

Guerlain Homme Eau Boisee
launched in 2012, formula 6364M

Habit Rouge 
(before 2007):  960M (Eau de Cologne), 
(EdP, launched in 2003): 01019M 
then reformulated in 2007:   02903M (EdT only)
then reformulated in 2011:   06342M (EdT only)
then reformulated in 2013:   07928M (EdT only)
then reformulated in 2017 : 11917 (EdT), 11976 (EdP)
flanker "Habit Rouge l'Eau", reformulated in 2015: 8051

Habit Rouge Eau de Cologne, bottle in this picture: year 2004,
formula 960M

Habit Rouge EdT (year 2009), formula 02903M

Habit Rouge Edt, formula 6342M (year 2011)

Habit Rouge, EdT, formula 7928M (year 2013)

Habit Rouge, EdP, (bottle in this picture : year 2010)
formula 1019M

before 2007: ???
reformulated in 2007:   03240M (EdT), 4404M (EdP)
then reformulated in 2015:   08164M (EdT)


launched in 2009:  4507M (EdP)
launched in 2010: 5360M (EdT), 
reformulated in 2012: 6561M (EdP only)

launched in 2006:   2016M (EdT), 2465M (Parfum)
reformulated in 2012:  06785M (EdP), 06786M (EdT)

Insolence, EdT, pottle in this picture: year 2006), 
formula 2016E

L'Instant (pour Femme)
launched in 2003:  0694 (EdP)
launched in 2005:  ??? (EdT)
reformulated in 2012: 7106M (EdT)
reformulated in 2017 : 11658 (EdP)

L'Instant Magic pour Femme
launched in 2007:  03070M (EdP)
(discontinued in 2014)

Jardins de Bagatelle
before 2007: 929M (EdT), ??? (EdP) 
then reformulated in 2010 : 5054M (EdP)
then reformulated in 2016: 09598M (EdP), 06939M (EdT)

Jardins de Bagatelle, EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2005), 
formula 929M

before 2007: ???
reformulated in 2007: 03638M (EdT), 03639M (EdP)
then reformulated in 2016: 09639 (EdT), 09640M (EdP)

Jicky EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2010), 
formula 03638M

Jicky, EdP, (bottle in this pictiure: year 2011), 
formula 3639M

Jicky EdP, year 2016, formula 9640M

L'Heure Bleue
(before 2007):         900M (EdP), 944M (Parfum)
then reformulated in 2007:     03247M (EdP), 03246M (EdT)
then reformulated in 2010:      05071M (Parfum) 05164M (EdP)
then reformulated in 2013:         7637M (EdT only)
then reformulated in 2015:      08759M (EdT only)
then in 2017: 11152 (EdP), 11153 (EdT), 11155 (Parfum)

L'Heure Bleue, EdP, year 2005, formula 900M

L'Heure Bleue, Parfum, formula 944M

L'Heure Bleue, EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2010)
 formula 03247M 

L'Heure Bleue EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2015)
 formula 05164M  

L'Heure Bleue, Edt, formula 8759M (since 2015)

L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme 
launched in 2004: 949M (EdT), 
launched in 2005: 1740M (EdP or "Extreme")

L'Instant pour Homme Cristaux d'Agrumes (limited edition): year 2006, 02715M

La Petite Robe Noire
launched (as limited edition) in 2009: 4107M 
then (broad market) in 2012: 6915M (EdT), 6666M (EdP).
then reformulated in 2015: 9340M (EdP only)

(limited) La Petite Robe Noire Modele nr.2 (EdP, 2010): 5719M
La Petite Robe Noire Couture (EdP, 2014): 8226M
Ma Robe Petales Eau Fraiche (2015) : 8997M
Ma Premiere Robe EdP (2015) : 9340M
Ma Robe sous le Vent (EdP Intense 2016): 10361M
Ma Robe Black Perfecto (2017): 11522
Ma Robe Pleated Dress: 13549

Modele nr 1, 04107M

Modele nr.2, EdP, batch 0Z01, year 2010, 5719M

L'Homme Ideal
"Eau de Toilette", launched in 2014: 08374M
"Cologne", launched in 2015: 9200M 

(before year 2007):  931M (EdP), 932M (EdT)
Then reformulated in 2007: 02723M (EdT), 04071M (EdP)
Then reformulated in 2012: 06737M (EdT), 6997M (Parfum)
Then in 2017 : 11251 (EdT), 11242 (EdP), 11243 (Parfum)

Mitsouko, EdT, bottle year 2006,
formula 932M
Mitsouko, EdP, bottle year 2006
formula 931M

Mitsouko EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2007), formula 2723M 

Mitsouko EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2009), 4071M

Mitsouko EdP, year 2010, formula 4071M 

Mitsouko EdT (bottle year 2016), formula 06737M

Mitsouko EdT, formula 11251 (year 2017)

Mitsouko Parfum, (this bottle: year 2014), formula  6997M

Mon Guerlain
year 2016 (EdP): 10404
year 2018 (EdT): 13031

Mon Guerlain EdP Florale: 12255
Mon Guerlain Blooming Roses: 13380

Mouchoir de Monsieur
before 2007: 942M
reformulated in 2008. 5040M
then reformulated in 2011:  6627M
then reformulated in 2019: 14257

before 2007:  930M (EdP), ??? (EdT), 934M (Parfum)
then reformulated in 2010: 5344M (EdP), ??? (EdT)
then reformulated in 2015:  9591M (EdP), ??? (EdT)
(Parfum discontinued in 2016)

Nahema, EdP, year 2006, formula 930M

Nahema, Parfum, formula 934M

Nahema, EdP, year 2011, formula 5344M

Petit Guerlain
reformulated in 2013: 07995M (EdT)

reformulated in 2006:  02849M (EdP)
reformulated in 2015:   09561M (EdT)
then in 2017: 11821 (EdP), 11822 (EdT), 11823 (Parfum)

before 2007: 915M (EdT), 922M (EdP), 921M (Parfum),
reformulated in 2007: 3470M(EdT), 3469M(EdP), 3799M (EdC)
Then reformulated in 2008:  03933M (EdT only)
Then reformulated in 2011:  05051M (EdP only)
Then reformulated in 2013: 07999 (EdT), 07833 (EdP) 
Then reformulated in 2014: 8860 (Parfum)

Shalimar Light/Eau Legere Parfumee (EdT), launched in 2003, formula: 0461M
(then reformulated in 2005, new formula: 01445M)

Eau de Shalimar (EdT): formula 03388M (year 2008)
Parfum Initial EdP:  formula 05634M (year 2011)
Parfum Initial l'Eau EdT: formula 06330M (year 2012)
Ode a la Vanille Madagascar:  formula 05163M (year 2012)
Ode a la Vanille Mexique:  formula 07717M (year 2013)
Souffle de Parfum:  formula 08758M (year 2014)
Souffle d'Oranger : 13421

Shalimar, bottles year 2005, batch 5H01,
formula 922M (EdP), formula 915M (EdT)

Shalimar Parfum, batch 5B01, year 2005, formula 921M

Shalimar EdT (this bottle from year 2011), formula 3933M.

Shalimar, EdP, year 2010, formula 03469M

Shalimar EdP, year 2012, formula 05051M

Shalimar, EdP, (bottle in this picture: year 2017), formula 07833

Shalimar, EdT, (bottle in this picture: year 2017), formula 7999M

Shalimar Light/Eau Legere (EdT), launched in 2003, formula 01445M
(this bottle year 2007)

Shalimar Parfum Initial EdP, launched in 2011, formula 5634M

Shalimar Ode a la Vanille ("Mexico"), 
launched in 2013, formula 07717

Vol de Nuit 
(produced as EdT and Parfum only: no EdP)
(before 2007):  935M (EdT)
then: ????
then reformulated in 2013: 07704M (EdT)
then reformulated in 2015: 9810 (Parfum)

Vol de Nuit, EdT, year 2005, formula 935M

(relaunched in year 2000; with a new ribbed/frosted bottle):
before 2007: 902M (EdT)
then reformulated in 2007 :  2724M (EdT)
then Vetiver Extreme was launched in 2007: 3115M
then reformulated in 2010: 05544M (EdT), 05543M (Extreme)
then reformulated in 2015 :    08455M (EdT only)

Vetiver, this bottle year 2008, formula 02724M

Vetiver, (this bottle from year 2012), formula 05544M

Vetiver, (this bottle from year 2016), formula 08455M


Aqua Allegoria Mentafollia, year 2004, formula 636M
one of the early examples of "formulas"

Philtre d'Amour, launched in 2000 (bottle in this picture: year 2007)
 formula 01613M

Vega, (modern version) launched in 2005,
 (this bottle: year 2011), formula 1618M

Purple Fantasy, launched in 2001, 
(this bottle from year 2006), formula 1642M

Cuir Beluga, launched in 2005,
 (this bottle from year 2014), formula 1683M

Insolence EdT, launched in 2006, formula 02016

Mayotte, launched in 2006, formula 02562M, 
then reformulated in 2008: 03678M 

Cologne du 68, EdT, launched in 2006, formula 02481M

My Insolence, EdT, launched in 2007, formula 3171

Vetiver pour Elle, launched in 2004, (this bottle from year 2011)
new formula 3318M (it was reformulated in 2007)

Iris Ganache, launched in 2007 (bottle in this picture: year 2011),
formula 3063M

"Quand Vient la Pluie" (2007) 
"Place Rouge" (2013)
(it's the same fragrance):
formula 3172M
(no picture)

Angelique Noir, launched in 2005, this bottle from 2014,
new formula 3614M (reformulated in 2007)

Attrape Coeur, launched in 2005, EdP (this bottle from year 2010),
new formula 3649M (reformulated in 2007)

L'Ame d'un Heros, launched in 2008, formula 3514M

Aqua Allegoria Mimosa Tiare, launched in 2009, formula 4176M

Mon Precieux Nectar
launched in 2009, formula 4243M
(no picture)

Boise Torride
 launched in 2009, formula 4480M
(no picture)

Tonka Imperiale, launched in 2010, formula 4797M

"Cologne du Parfumeur"
launched in 2008, formula 04846M
(no picture) 

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune
(launched in 1999, reformulated in 2009 

Aqua Allegoria Pamplelune, launched in 1999, (this bottle from 2015)
new formula 4810 (reformulated in 2009)

Nuit d'Amour, launched in 2006,
new formula 05072M (reformulated in 2010)

"Cherry Blossom"
(launched in 1999), 
new formula 5627M (reformulated in 2010)
(no picture)

Aqua Allegoria "Bouquet numero 2", launched in 2011, formula 5650

"Muguet 2011", bottle year 2011, formula 05718M

Mademoiselle Guerlain, 2009, code 05719M

"Floral Romantique"
launched in 2011, formula 5730M
(no picture)

Chamade pour Homme, launched in 2009, (bottle in this picture: year 2014),  
new formula 5890M  (it was reformulated in 2011)

(launched in 1985), reformulated in 2011
new formula 6355M (no picture) 

"Myrrhe et Delires"
formula 6497M
(no picture)

Encens Mythique d'Orient, launched in 2012, formula 6751M

"Song d'un Bois d'Ete"
(launched in 2012) , formula 6759M
(no picture)

Rose Barbare, launched in 2005, (bottle in this picture: year 2016),
new formula 6894M (it was reformulated in 2013) 

Liu (EdP modern version), 
launched in 2014 , formula 7107M
(no picture)

Aqua Allegoria Flora Rosa, launched in 2013, formula 07346


L'Heure de Nuit (EdP)
launched in 2012, formula 7371M
(later refomulated in 2015) 

Eau de Lingerie
launched in 2013, formula 7490M
(no picture)

"Eau de Parfum Le 68", EdP, launched in 2013, formula 7617M 

Petit Guerlain EdT, launched in 1994,  (this bottle from year 2013), 
new formula 07995M (reformulated in 2013)

(EdT) : formula 8212M

Santal Royal
formula 8874M


Aqua Allegoria Teazzura, launched in 2015, formula 9098M

Le Plus Beau Jour de Ma Vie, launched in 2015, formula 09108M

Mon Exclusif, launched in 2015, formula 9579M

L'Heure de Nuit
launched in 2012 (formula 7631M),
 reformulated in 2015, (formula 9638M)


"Muguet 2016", formula 9821M

Ambre Eternel
launched in 2016, formula 9993M
(no picture)

Promenade des Anglais, launched in 2015, formula 10117

Musc Noble
launched in 2018, formula 12738
(no picture)

and finally...
(courtesy of Gabichou from

in production:
AA Mandarine basilic : 07996M
AA Rosa Rossa : 12238
AA Passiflora : 12232
AA Bergamote calabria : 11167
AA Nerolia blanca : 12256
AA Pera granita : 09873M
AA Herba fresca : 06690M
AA Pamplelune : 04810M
AA Limon verde : 11974

AA Gentiana (2000) : EU/US-478, batch UKOVY
AA Foliflora (2003): 00195 M, batch 2LO1
AA Lavande velours (1999): EU/US – 358, batch DT123
AA Jasminora : 05664M, batch OY01
AA Tiaré Mimosa : 04176M, batch 9N01
AA Laurier-réglisse : 03409M, batch 7L01
AA Lys Soleia : 06422M, batch 1Y01
AA Angélique lilas : 02829M, batch 7B01 
AA Cherry Blossom : 04044M, batch 9Q01 and 8Z01 
AA Orange Magnifica : 01469M, batch 5C01
AA Limon verde : 08204M, batch 4T01
AA Lemon fresca : 00236M, batch 2M01
AA TuttiKiwi : 02087M, year 2005

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