martedì 15 novembre 2016

Yesterday and Today: "La Nuit de L'Homme" EdT, by Yves Saint Laurent (guest post)

Hi there! 
This is my first post, here at "Raiders of the Lost Scent". A few months ago I wrote a brief note about "fragrance formulas" reported on the boxes in all Dior perfumes, suggesting them as a method for detecting reformulations (see here). Surprisingly, that post gained a lot of resonance among perfume enthusiasts (you can find discussions and even Youtube videos explaining formulas written on the box, codes, "secret numbers".....).   
Following this track, I accepted to make a funny, similar work, with another acclaimed male scent: La Nuit de l'Homme EdT, by Yves Saint Laurent, performing tests, then checking "formulas" on the boxes and discussing the results. 
Yves Saint Laurent has actually been using "formulas" for a long time, and every YSL scent (EdP, EdT, AfterShave) has its own "formula" at the end of the ingredient listed on the box.

I got four samples: 
-year 2009 (batch 9Axx, the first one produced)
-year 2014 (batch 38Lxxx)
-year 2015 (batch 38Mxxx)
-year 2016 (batch 38Nxxx)

As you should know, smelling tests at own home have to be performed on different surfaces to really detect any difference. By performing an "home test" (not to say laboratory tests...) you should spray at least your skin, paper and some clothes, then check similarities and differences.

There are clearly three different formulations, the first being the original one; after that, there was a subtle but clear reformulation in the samples marked "year 2014" and "year 2015" (both are identical), and finally another reformulation in the "year 2016" sample. 
This last one is the most remarkable, because there is quite a difference with other samples.
The original one (year 2009) opens quietly with a wave of spices, the second one (years 2014-2015) has a considerable brighter opening, spritzing fresh spices all over you. 
But the first one (2009) has a darker and more intense drydown, while the other (2014-2015) has a lighter, fresher ending. 
Longevity and projection are identical in these three samples.
Differences are negligible on paper, barely perceptible on skin, and evident on a heavy scarf. 

The last sample (year 2016) should need a discussion apart, since there are great differences from beginning to end. The whole fragrance has apparently been "rearranged". 
In every stage it appears "rounded", "smoothened", there is no sharp note. 
Longevity and projections are on par with previous versions, but the whole scent is not the same than before.

Now let's go for the "formulas". All YSL scents report the "fragrance formulas" on the boxes, put at the last place in the ingredient lists. 
When you read letters and numbers such as "YK05-3" (it's an example), you could think to a "captive", i.e an unnamed secret ingredient, but that's the "formula" instead. 
When the formula changes, you could legitimately think a reformulation occurred. 
Please note every version has its own "formula", so "La Nuit de L'Homme EdT" has a different formula from "Intense", "Parfum", "Sport", "Frozen Cologne", etc. 
Even EdT and After Shave have different formulas! You must be very precise in reporting it.

(unfortunately, "reformulations" are very frequent: the legendary Kouros EdT, one of the YSL's most iconic scents of the Eighties, had 4 different versions/formulations in just 10 years, from 2005 to 2015.......)

Early boxes (2009) : formula is "8YB02-1"

This is typical year 2011 box,
batch 62Hxxx, and you see the "8YB02-2" formula

Apart the formula, you can see the ingredients list has slightly changed too, from 2009 to 2011.

Year 2015: Fragrance Ingredients List (F.I.L.) is "8YB02/2"

Things remained the same at least until year 2015, then.....

Two boxes side-by-side:
year 2014 ( 8YB02-2 ) and year 2016 ( C167049/1 )

You can read: "Alcohol-Parfum-Water" in 2014 and 2015, and "Alcohol-Water-Parfum" in 2016.

Magnification of a typical 2016 box with
Fragrance Ingredient List (F.I.L.) "C167049/1"

Finally, year 2016 box has a different formula and ingredients list.
You can assume "La Nuit de L'Homme" EdT underwent at least three different formulations since its launch in 2009, until 2016.


Early bottles (2009-2010) with old label:
"B.R.I. 28-31, Bd du Parc, Neuilly Cedex France"
(B.R.I = Beaute Recherche Industrie, L'Oreal)

Since year 2011:
new label "YSL Beaute"


La Nuit de L'Homme EdT (formulas)
2009- "8YB02-1" 
2011- "8YB02-2"
2016- "C167049/1"

L'Oreal (YSL) batch codes: 
2009: 9xxx
2010: 0xxx
2011: letter H as third in the row (i.e.: 62H001)
2012: letter J
2013: letter K
2014: letter L
2015: letter M
2016: letter N

-Want a darker, more intense scent? Go for early bottles (2009,2010); 
-Want a brighter but fresher scent? Go for any bottle produced between 2011-2015; 
-If you prefer a smoothened scent, check for the last one (2016).

....and have a good sniffing!

Alberto Converano

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