venerdì 28 marzo 2014

"VU par Ted Lapidus" (1975)

Year 1975: the Parfum, according to Ted Lapidus.

Ted Lapidus, who is he? Today is not a very well known name, but during the Seventies was one of the most popular French designers, and it is very easy to find his advertising in popular and fashion magazines. "Vu par Ted Lapidus" (in French: the perfume "according to/from the point of view of Ted Lapidus") was his first creation, dating back to 1975.

domenica 16 marzo 2014

How to recognize CACHAREL perfumes

Among the most important perfumes produced by CACHAREL, we should consider: ANAIS ANAIS (1978), POUR HOMME (1981), LOULOU (1987), EDEN (1994), NOA (1998), NEMO (2000), GLORIA (2002).  Here is a short guide about recognizing CACHAREL perfumes.

mercoledì 12 marzo 2014

Thought of the Day.

“Odors have a power of persuasion stronger than that of words, appearances, emotions, or will. 
 There is no remedy for it.” 
                                                     (Patrick Suskind)

lunedì 10 marzo 2014

DONNA KARAN ("The Black & Gold Swan", 1992)

Year: 1992
Producer : International Flavors and Fragrance (IFF)
Bottle design: Stephan Weiss.
Top: Apricot, bergamot, neroli, osmanthus, peach and pineapple.
Middle: Carnation, cassis, heliotrope, jasmine, lily, orchid, rose and ylang-ylang.
Base: Amber, benzoin, cedar, citruses, tonka bean, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, leather, patchouli and incense.
Longevity: high
Sillage : high

Rating: 8/10 or 10/10 
(if you consider it a female scent, or a male one, or a piece of Art and Design...)

The Black&Gold Swan: it's hard to say where to start, talking about this perfume. 
We could start from its glamorous image, typical of the late Eighties in NY. Or to consider that it was presented as a scent "for women", playing around leathery and incense notes (actually being perfectly wearable by male audience...). Or could we discuss about the bottle, a true piece of Modern Art? 

sabato 8 marzo 2014

Thought of the Day.

"Shalini is one of the most expensive perfumes ever produced?
Well, it took me 15 minutes to create."


giovedì 6 marzo 2014

How to recognize GIVENCHY perfumes.

Hubert de Givenchy, one of the most classy and elegant men in the world, founded his own fashion company in 1952, and "Parfums Givenchy" in 1957. During early years Givenchy perfumes were produced at Balenciaga factories, then, since 1968, produced in its own facilities.
In 1981 Givenchy company entered in "Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin" industrial group, then, in 1986, LVMH acquired the entire VC-P group (and Givenchy, too).

martedì 4 marzo 2014

Thought of the Day.

"Prices..... sometimes are not reflected in the jus."

(Maurice Roucel)

K de Krizia (1980)

Year: 1980
Producer:  "FPdP" ("Florbath Profumi di Parma", 1980-1999) ; Morris (since 2000)
Nose: Maurice Roucel
Bottle: Pierre Dinand

Top: Aldehydes, Coriander, Peach, Hyacinth, Neroli. 
Heart: Tuberose, Jasmine, Narcissus, Orange blossom, Rose, Carnation, Orchid, Lily-of-the-valley, Beeswax, Ylang-ylang.
Base: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Leather, Patchouli, Amber, Oakmoss, Styrax, Vanilla and Musk.
Longevity: high
Sillage: very high
Rating: 9/10 (vintage version only)

First perfume created by Maurice Roucel, a brilliant 29-years old chemist grew up at Chanel under Henri Robert. 

sabato 1 marzo 2014

"My sense of smell is fading"

Meeting an old friend, ENT doctor, talking about this and that, and at some point the discussion comes on "the sense of smell". I point out that, at a certain age, the sense of smell seems to have diminished, with desperation for many people involved in perfumes, and the old friend begins an interesting discussion. 
"You know, he tells me, I'm noticing more and more people who can't smell efficiently. 
It seems a phenomenon similar to what's happening to the hearing. Nowadays people are more deaf than 50 years ago, because there is an enormous noise pollution. Well, I am experiencing the same effect with the sense of smell. A lot of people tell me they have the impression of suffering cold perpetually, since they can't smell in a proper way.  
And I think that this is due to the fact that we live in more polluted environments, where the smell is always under pressure and stresses. You are forced to smell an immense quantity of - and often not so pleasant- odors. More, there is a lot of pollution in the air. You smell a lot of odors plus a lot of chemical substances entering in your nose. It could have negative consequences in the long run. I'm afraid that, if the trend continues in this way, we're going towards a generation of hyposmic people".
Right you are (if you think so).


Incontro un anziano amico, medico Otorinolaringoiatra, e parliamo del più e del meno, e ad un certo punto la discussione arriva sull'olfatto. Gli parlo del fatto che arrivati a una certa età l'olfatto sembra attenuarsi, con grande dispiacere di coloro per i quali i profumi occupano grande importanza, o anche solo passione, e lui comincia una discussione interessante.
"Ma lo sai, mi dice, che sto notando sempre più gente che riesce ad annusare di meno? Sembra stia accadendo un fenomeno simile a quello dell'udito. Oggi la gente è più sorda rispetto a 50 anni fa, perchè c'è un inquinamento acustico enorme. L'udito è sempre più stressato e perde efficienza. Le generazioni passate ci sentivano certamente meglio di quelle attuali. Ecco, lo stesso effetto lo sto verificando con l'odorato. Molte persone mi dicono che hanno l'impressione di essere perennemente raffreddate, nel senso che non riescono più a sentire gli odori, anche se non sono realmente raffreddate, 
E io penso che tutto questo sia dovuto al fatto che viviamo in ambienti sempre più inquinati, dove l'olfatto è sempre sotto pressione e sotto stress. Non solo odoriamo continuamente, ma odoriamo anche sostanza chimiche, che chissà quali effetti possono avere sul senso dell'olfatto. E a lungo andare la cosa potrebbe avere conseguenze negative. 
Ho paura che, se continua così, andiamo incontro a uno stato di iposmia generale". 
Così è, se vi pare. 

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