lunedì 10 marzo 2014

DONNA KARAN ("The Black & Gold Swan", 1992)

Year: 1992
Producer : International Flavors and Fragrance (IFF)
Bottle design: Stephan Weiss.
Top: Apricot, bergamot, neroli, osmanthus, peach and pineapple.
Middle: Carnation, cassis, heliotrope, jasmine, lily, orchid, rose and ylang-ylang.
Base: Amber, benzoin, cedar, citruses, tonka bean, vanilla, vetiver, sandalwood, musk, leather, patchouli and incense.
Longevity: high
Sillage : high

Rating: 8/10 or 10/10 
(if you consider it a female scent, or a male one, or a piece of Art and Design...)

The Black&Gold Swan: it's hard to say where to start, talking about this perfume. 
We could start from its glamorous image, typical of the late Eighties in NY. Or to consider that it was presented as a scent "for women", playing around leathery and incense notes (actually being perfectly wearable by male audience...). Or could we discuss about the bottle, a true piece of Modern Art? 

Or argue about the current (very high) "collector's" price? Or about the fact that Estee Lauder ordered to stop production? 
The very first Donna Karan scent, on the shelves only from 1992 to 1998, was a caleidoscope of emotions and opinions. 
There are those still loving it, and those who viscerally hates it. Beyond any considerations, we'd consider it as a beautiful piece of art and glamorous history.


Il Cigno Nero: difficile dire da dove cominciare per parlare di questo profumo.
Dall' immagine glamour del marchio, tipica della NewYork fine anni Ottanta? Dal fatto che era presentato come profumo femminile pur ruotando intorno a note cuoio e incenso, e quindi portabilissimo anche dal pubblico maschile? Dal fatto che il flacone era una'opera d'arte? Dal fatto che si trova oggi a prezzi "collector's"? Dal fatto che Estee Lauder ordinò di cessarne la produzione appena entrata in possesso della divisione profumi DKNY?
Il primissimo Donna Karan, nei negozi solamente dal 1992 al 1998, è stato tutte queste cose insieme. C'è chi lo ama visceralmente e chi lo detesta. Al di là di tutte le considerazione, possiamo considerarlo oggi, oltre che un profumo, uno splendido oggetto d'arte e simbolo di un'epoca.

4 commenti:

  1. It was still on the shelf in 2006 in the U.S. at some Macy's stores, but it was gone in 2007. A very unique scent.

  2. I just found this gem, a full big bottle at my local vintage Thrift shop and now that I realize that this is one of the most sought out vintage fragrance bottle online or anywhere it makes me even more giddy!!

  3. i have an original bottle signed by her and her husband. its glass and gold. I've had it forever. its pretty.


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