"It will be the Greatest, and we will call it Opium"
(Yves Saint Laurent, 1976)
Sexy, Sultry, Seductive, Successful: it's Opium. After Samsara, this is my second tribute to wonderful scents of my youth: this time we talk about the Greatest one.
This article is divided in 7 parts:
- Opium at a glance
- Box and bottles through the years.
- Bottles "Year-by-Year"
- The Advertisements
- The Flankers
- The Opium Universe
- Tutorial Pics
I tried to make some sort of "Opium encyclopedia". Enjoy it!
FOREWORD: for any reference about YSL perfumes, (such as words as "batchcodes", "barcodes", "greendot", or "Charles of the Ritz", "Parfums Corp.", "Sanofi", "Gucci-Era", etc.... check this guide.) ....and remember YSL is famous for messing up boxes, labels and bottles!
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Part 1:
OPIUM at a Glance
OPIUM at a Glance
- Launched during Year 1977 in France (1978 in USA), it was the fifth perfume by Yves Saint Laurent (after "Y", 1964; "Pour Homme", 1971; "Rive Gauche", 1971; and "Eau Libre", 1975).
- Created by Jean Louis Sieuzac, Jean Amic and Raymond Chaillan, three noses from "Roure", YSL's preferred perfume factory.
- Opium "Eau de Toilette" was so concentrated that they didn't even launch an "Eau de Parfum" (19%, Eau de Toilette, 30% Parfum)
- It was the first mass fragrance using the, new, revolutionary "natural spray" mechanism, instead of the usual gas-propellant" one;
- The "Perfume" was purposely sold at an higher price than "Chanel N.5". Despite this, every bottle was sold within hours.
- Opium was arguably the most successful fragrance in the world: in just nine months, it amassed the astonishing amount of $3 million. At the time, Yves Saint Laurent did not owned YSL perfumes (it was "Charles of the Ritz"), and he received only a small percentage for any bottle sold. Then he decided to buy back the whole thing (YSL "Parfums Corp.", in year 1986). Actually, it was YSL's fortune.
- The tassels of the perfume bottles were difficult to obtain; production slowed down periodically, because of their scarcity.
- Opium is one of the most counterfeited perfumes in history: someone calculated there are ten fake bottles, for every authentic one. Therefore, it's likely a lot of people have never experienced the real Opium; they always wore a fake fragrance.
- The traditional Opium "splash" bottle, designed by Pierre Dinand, was inspired by the so-called "inro", a Japanese lacquered small case, worn under the kimono.
- The name "Opium" caused a violent stir because it was named after a drug. It was banned in a few countries, but the controversy made the fragrance to gain a lot of attention and publicity.
- The party held in New York (September 1978) for the launch in USA, was one of the wildest, iconic and most sumptuous of the Seventies.
- Created by Jean Louis Sieuzac, Jean Amic and Raymond Chaillan, three noses from "Roure", YSL's preferred perfume factory.
- Opium "Eau de Toilette" was so concentrated that they didn't even launch an "Eau de Parfum" (19%, Eau de Toilette, 30% Parfum)
- It was the first mass fragrance using the, new, revolutionary "natural spray" mechanism, instead of the usual gas-propellant" one;
- The "Perfume" was purposely sold at an higher price than "Chanel N.5". Despite this, every bottle was sold within hours.
- Opium was arguably the most successful fragrance in the world: in just nine months, it amassed the astonishing amount of $3 million. At the time, Yves Saint Laurent did not owned YSL perfumes (it was "Charles of the Ritz"), and he received only a small percentage for any bottle sold. Then he decided to buy back the whole thing (YSL "Parfums Corp.", in year 1986). Actually, it was YSL's fortune.
- The tassels of the perfume bottles were difficult to obtain; production slowed down periodically, because of their scarcity.
- Opium is one of the most counterfeited perfumes in history: someone calculated there are ten fake bottles, for every authentic one. Therefore, it's likely a lot of people have never experienced the real Opium; they always wore a fake fragrance.
 |
| The Japanese "inro" and the Opium splash bottle |
- The traditional Opium "splash" bottle, designed by Pierre Dinand, was inspired by the so-called "inro", a Japanese lacquered small case, worn under the kimono.
- The name "Opium" caused a violent stir because it was named after a drug. It was banned in a few countries, but the controversy made the fragrance to gain a lot of attention and publicity.
- The party held in New York (September 1978) for the launch in USA, was one of the wildest, iconic and most sumptuous of the Seventies.
- A very easy method to detect early bottles is to find the mark "80°" alcohol volume. Later than 1980, the sign "80°" was forbidden and substituted with "80%". Obviously, old boxes were used until end of stocks, so you can find "80°" in 1981,1982,1983...
-The original lineup (1977) was composed by:
- Three "EdT" spray bottles with unusual sizes: 36ml (1.2oz), 69ml (2.3oz), and 105ml (3.5oz)
- Two "EdT" splash bottles: 60ml (2oz) and 120ml (4oz)
- Three "Parfum" bottles: 7.5ml (1/4oz), 15ml (1/2oz), 30ml (1oz), plus one 7.5 ml refillable "purse spray".
- No sticker under the bottle, but writings "embossed" on the glass and batchcode painted over (unfortunately, the batccode was very easy to remove)
-Batchcodes: until year 2004, you will find 4-digits on the box (example: 1234) but 5 digits on the bottom of the bottle: the same 4 digits plus "1" or "2" (same example: 12341 or 12342).
-Batchcodes: until year 2004, you will find 4-digits on the box (example: 1234) but 5 digits on the bottom of the bottle: the same 4 digits plus "1" or "2" (same example: 12341 or 12342).
 |
| ......reformulated? |
So, if you want experience something near the real Opium, be sure to find a bottle dated at least before year 2000. As usual, the older, the better.
- It was one the first fragrance to indicate the allergens list on the box, already in 2003.
- YSL was world-famous for confusing labels, bottles and boxes. All mixed up. You will need practice to come to terms with it. Just an example: the so-called "ParfumsCorp" Era ended in 1993. Well, you will find "ParfumsCorp" labels until 1996......
Another example: "Sanofi" Era began in 1993. Well, you will find "Sanofi" labels since 1996!
To date Opium bottles with accuracy, in many cases you will need box and bottles together. Checking batchcodes with Barcodes, Greendots, Labels, etc, you will know all you need.
- Put it simply....
 |
| The EAN barcode..... |
 |
| If you see the EAN barcode (i.e. the classical barcode) somewhere in the box, you can say it's after 1990. |
 |
| Very difficult to see: the batch code written in the bottom side of the "Parfum" boxes. Black ink over black background! |
 |
| Golden, rounded cap? This means years 1991-2003. |
 |
| Flat, red cap? This means years 2003-2009. |
- Believe it or not, a still-sealed vintage , traditional "splash" bottle (60ml or 120ml, 2oz or 4oz.) is almost impossible to find nowadays, and it's one of the pieces most sought after by collectors.
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Part 2:
Box and bottle Styles
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Part 2:
Box and bottle Styles
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SPRAY
Spray EdT bottles
(1977-1991)
Spray EdT bottles
(1977-1991)
 |
| 1977-1991: "Original" bottle, with non-removable cap, "YvesSaintLaurent" written in golden letters over a BLACK background, on the bottom of the box. Plain, not-decorated bottle. Sizes: 36ml, 69ml, 105ml ( 1.2oz, 2.3oz., 3.5oz), plus a rare 25ml/0.8 oz (spray) with removable cap. Apparently a big 135ml /4.5 oz bottle (fixed cap) was produced only for a few markets. |
Spray EdT bottles (1991-2003)  |
| 1991- 2003 : "Nineties"-style spray bottle, with removable golden cap. "YSL" still written on BLACK background on the bottom of the box Richly-decorated bottle. Sizes 30ml, 50ml, 100ml (1oz, 1.6oz, 3.3oz). Apparently a 20ml /0.7 oz EdT spray bottle was produced too, for a few markets. |
Spray bottles (2003-2009)  |
| 2003-2009 : "Gucci"style, spray bottle with removable flat, red cap. "YvesSaintLaurent" written without a black background on the box. Mildly-decorated bottle. Sizes: 30ml, 50ml, 100ml (1oz, 1.6oz, 3.3oz). Apparently a 15 ml EdT bottle was produced, only for a few markets. |
Spray Bottles
since 2009
 |
| Since 2009 : "L'Oreal-style" box and bottles |
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SPLASH BOTTLES
EdT "Splash" Bottles
SPLASH BOTTLES
EdT "Splash" Bottles
(1977-2003, then discontinued)
 |
| Years 1977-2003, then discontinued. Sizes: 60ml and 120 ml (2oz , 4 oz) |
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EAU de PARFUM (since 1991)
Splash and Spray bottles
labelled as "Secret de Parfum"
(launched in 1991, discontinued in 2003)
EAU de PARFUM (since 1991)
Splash and Spray bottles
labelled as "Secret de Parfum"
(launched in 1991, discontinued in 2003)
 |
| "Secret de Parfum", 1991-2003, then discontinued 10ml, 50ml, Spray |
 |
| "Secret de Parfum", splash bottle (1991-2003) |
Classic "Eau de Parfum", 2003-2009.  |
EdP "Gucci-style" bottle (2003-2009), in plastic case.
|
EdP, since 2009
 |
| EdP "L'Oreal-style" bottle (since 2009) |
---------------------------
"Parfum" bottles
"Parfum" bottles
 |
| Iconic Opium bottle with tassel, sizes: 7.5ml., 15ml, 30ml. |
 |
| Parfum 7.5 ml Spray Refillable (1977-2003) |
Parfum, 2003-2009
 |
| Years 2003-2009: 7.5ml, 15ml, 30ml. |
Parfum, since 2009
 |
| Parfum since 2009 ("squared" box) |
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Part 3:
Year-by-Year
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-----------------------------------
Year-by-Year
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Year 1977
 |
| Year 1977 leaflet |
---------------------------------
Year 1978
EdT spray bottle 69ml / 2.3oz.
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Year 1978
EdT spray bottle 69ml / 2.3oz.
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Year 1981
 |
| Batch 1163 = year 1981 |
--------------------------------------------
Year 1982
EdT 60ml splash bottle
EdT 60ml splash bottle
---------------------------------------------
Year 1983
120ml/4oz. splash bottle with leaflet
 |
| NOTE: the old "80°" lettering |
 |
| 60ml splash bottle, batch 31371 = year 1983 NOTE the old "80°" lettering |
year 1983, again...
 |
| EdT Spray bottle, 36 ml, batch 33001 = year 1983 |
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Year 1984
36ml EdT Spray bottles
 |
| batch 4284 = year 1984 |
-------------------------------
Year 1984, again...
EdT spray bottle 69ml / 2.3 oz
 |
| batch 4024 = year 1984 |
-----------------------------
Year 1984, again...
Edt spray bottle 105ml / 3.5oz. (tester)
Edt spray bottle 105ml / 3.5oz. (tester)
 |
| notice: no sticker, "105 ml" and "3.5oz." engraved on the glass - batch 4353 painted on the glass- |
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Year 1985
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Year 1986
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Year 1987
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Year 1989
-----------------------------------
Year 1990
Year 1985
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| Parfum 15 ml, batch 5270 = year 1985 |
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Year 1986
 |
| Parfum, batch 6179 = year 1986 |
 |
| Rare 25ml spray bottle batch 6328 = year 1986 |
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| 60ml splash bottle, batch 6244= year 1986 |
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Year 1987
 |
| Parfum, 7.5 ml, batch 12381 = year 1987 |
 |
| 60 ml splash bottle, batch 7185 = year 1987 |
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Year 1989
 |
| Parfum, 7.5 ml, batch 90811 = year 1989 |
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Year 1990
 |
| 50ml spray bottle, ParfumsCorp label, batch 02741 = year 1990 |
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Years 1991/1992:
new spray bottles with removable golden cap
10ml, 30ml(1oz), 50ml(1.6oz), 100ml(3.3oz)
plus "Secret de Parfum" (splash and spray)
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Year 1991
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Year 1992
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Year 1994
--------------------------------
Year 1995
--------------
year 1996
--------------------
year 1997
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year 1998
----------------------------
year 1999
-------------------------------
Year 2000
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Year 2001
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Year 2002
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Year 2003:
new spray bottles with removable golden cap
10ml, 30ml(1oz), 50ml(1.6oz), 100ml(3.3oz)
plus "Secret de Parfum" (splash and spray)
 |
| Opium "Secret de Parfum" spray mini-bottle 10ml |
-----------------
Year 1991
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| Opium "Secret de Parfum" 50 ml /1.6 oz, spray bottle, batch 1294 |
 |
| Opium Secret de Parfum, batch 1294 = year 1991 |
 |
| 30ml edt spray bottle, ParfumsCorp label batch 12681 = year 1991 |
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Year 1992
 |
| The new bottle, richly-decorated, with removable, golden cap |
 |
| 30ml EdT bottle with removable golden cap, batch 22671 year 1992 |
 |
| 15ml parfum, batch 2162, year 1992 |
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Year 1994
 |
| EdT spray 100ml / 3.3oz. bottle, batch 41301 = year 1994 |
 |
| EdT 60ml / 2 oz. splash bottle, batch 42081 |
 |
| "ParfumsCorp" label, , batch 4208 = year 1994 |
--------------------------------
Year 1995
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| 120ml/ 4oz. EdT splash bottle, batch 53101 = year 1995 |
 |
| EdT 100 ml / 3.3 oz spray bottle , batch 50861 NOTE the old "ParfumsCorp"-style label instead of the Sanofi one. |
 |
EdT 50 ml / 1.6 oz spray bottle , batch 50821
NOTE the old "ParfumsCorp"-style label instead of the Sanofi one.
|
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year 1996
 |
| EdT 30ml / 1oz. spray bottle, batch 61442 NOTE the old "ParfumsCorp"-style label, instead of the Sanofi one. |
 |
| 50ml spray bottle, ParfumCorp label, batch 62551 = year 1996 |
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| 50ml spray bottle batch 6273 = year 1996 Note for the first time the "new" SANOFI label |
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year 1997
 |
| EdT 100ml / 3.3 oz spray bottle, batch 73091 with the Sanofi label |
 |
| EdT 50ml spray bottle, Sanofi label, batch 72452 = year 1997 |
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year 1998
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| Secret de Parfum 10 ml, batch 82011 = year 1998 notice: the obsolete YSL "ParfumsCorp" plastic case |
 |
| EdT 120ml / 4oz. splash bottle, batch 82261 = year 1998 |
 |
| EdT spray bottle, 50ml / 1.6 oz. , batch 81261 |
 |
| EdT spray bottle 30 ml, batch 81321 |
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year 1999
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| EdT 100ml /3.3oz. spray bottle (Tester), "Sanofi" sticker, batch 91091 |
 |
| EdT 30ml / 1fl. oz , batch 93571 |
 |
| Parfum 30ml / 1oz , batch 91861 |
Year 2000
 |
| EdT, 30 ml Spray, Sanofi label, batch 0096 = year 2000 |
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| 50ml spray bottle, batch 0152 = year 2000 |
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| Splash bottle, 60 ml, Sanofi label, batch 02582 = year 2000 |
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| Secret de Parfum, 30ml, batch 00661 = year 2000 note the VERY OLD label ParfumsCorp |
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Year 2001
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| EdT Spray, 50 ml Note the OLD Sanofi label , instead of "Gucci" one, batch code 10021 = year 2001 |
-------------------------
Year 2002
 |
| Splash bottle batch 2330 = year 2002 |
 |
| 30ml spray bottle, Gucci label, batch 21501 = year 2002 |
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Year 2003:
new "Gucci-era" bottles
(with flat red cap; with plastic EdP spray bottles, with glass EdT spray, mildly-decorated bottles; all splash bottles discontinued; all "Secret de Parfum" bottles discontinued)
NOTICE: the bottom changes its color and it's
not BLACK anymore.
 |
| EdT, in red box (glass, mildly-decorated bottle) |
| ---------------------------------- |
| Eau de Parfum, golden box (in plastic case) |
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 |
| Parfum |
----------------------------------
 |
| Opium "Secret de Parfum", last bottle produced, Gucci label, batch 30871 = year 2003 |
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| 50ml spray bottle, batch 32341 = year 2003 |
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Year 2004
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| "Summer Fragrance / Eau d'Ete", batch 40282 |
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| 15 ml, Edt Spray,, Gucci label, batch 42931 = year 2004 |
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Year 2005
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| EdP bottle 50ml / 1.6 oz., Gucci label, batch 5AAA |
 |
| Guccci label, batch 5FBA = year 2005 |
Year 2006
 |
| EdP 50 ml / 1.6 oz, batch 6IAA |
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| EdT 50ml / 1.6oz , batch 6EAA |
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| Parfum 7.5 ml, bottom of the external box, batch 6KAA = year 2006 |
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Year 2007
 |
| Edt 30 ml, Batch 7IBD = year 2007 |
 |
| EdT, 100ml spray bottle, Gucci label, batch 7DAB = year 2007 |
 |
| Eau de Parfum, 50 ml, batch 7xxx = year 2007 |
-----------------------------------
year 2008
 |
| EdP bottle 50ml / 1.6 oz., batch 8BAB |
 |
| EdT bottle 100ml 3.3 oz, with the B.R.I. L'Oreal label, batch 8BAA = year 2008 |
 |
| Parfum 30ml, batch 8CAA |
---------------------------------
Year 2009
(last "Gucci"-type bottles)
Year 2009
(last "Gucci"-type bottles)
 |
| EdT 30ml /1 oz. batch 9BCA NOTICE the "new" L'Oreal label with the B.R.I. lettering |
 |
| 50ml spray bottle batch 9IAA = year 2009 Note the B.R.I. lettering |
 |
| New l'Oreal bottle EdP 90ml, batch code 9KAB = year 2009 |
------------------------------------------
Year 2009:
new "L'Oreal" bottles.
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Part 4:
Advertisements
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new "L'Oreal" bottles.
 |
| EdT |
 |
| EdP |
|
| Parfum |
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Part 4:
Advertisements
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1977-1982 (Jerry Hall)
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1980s
--------------------
1987 (Linda Evangelista, 1st)
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1992 (Nastasia Urbano)
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1990s
------------------------------------
1993-1995 (Kate Moss, 1st)
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1996-1998 (Linda Evangelista, 2nd)
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1999 (Natalia Semenova)
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2000s
----------------------
2000 (Sophie Dahl)
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2000 (Sophie Dahl)
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2003 (Kate Moss, 2nd)
--------------------
2006 (Maria Carla Boscono)
--------------------------
2008 (Malgorzata Bela)
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2009 (Karen Elson)
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2011 (Emily Blunt)
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Part 5:
FLANKERS
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Part 5:
FLANKERS
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year 1998:
Fraicheur d'Orient
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year 2002:
Eau d'Ete / Summer Fragrance
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year 2003:
Eau d'Ete / Summer Fragrance 2003
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year 2004:
Eau d'Ete / Summer Fragrance 2004
year 2005:
Fleur de Shanghai
-----------------------------------------------
year 2006: 2 flankers
Fleur Imperiale
Oriental Collector's Edition 2006
plus: Opium Prestige (special bottle)
-------------------------------
year 2007: 3 flankers
Legendes de Chine
Orchidee de Chine
Orient Extreme
--------------------------------------------------------------
year 2008: 2 flankers
Poesie de Chine
Elixir Voluptueux
plus: Collector's Edition 2008 (special bottle)
plus: Collector's Edition 2008 (special bottle)
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Part 6:
The Opium Universe
------------------------------
 |
| Necklace |
 |
| Perfumed Necklace |
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| Parfum Spray 7.5ml refillable + Pochette |
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| Parfum Spray 7.5 ml Refillable, plus Pochette. |
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| Advertising Card |
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| Edt 30 ml splash, "Inro" Bottle |
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| Miniature 7.5ml |
 |
| Miniature |
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| Miniature, 7.5 ml, year 2002 (Gucci-Era) |
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| Scented Ceramic |
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| Secret de Parfum, Vial plus Tassel Key Ring |
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| Heart-shaped, limited edition year 2007 |
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| EdT Limited edition year 1995 |
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| EdT Limited edition year 1995 |
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| 15th Anniversary Limited Edition Parfum year 1992 |
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| 15th Anniversary Limited Edition Parfum year 1992 |
 |
| Opium Parfum, limited edition 15ml bottle |
 |
| Gucci-Era, year 2000s, Parfum 3.5ml |
 |
| Opium 40th Anniversary limited edition (2017) |
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Part 7:
TUTORIAL PICS
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 |
| The rare "Made in USA" 2.3 oz bottle (thanks to Kafkaesque Blog) |
 |
| The rare "Made in USA" bottle, 1.2 oz (36ml.) |
 |
| The "Made in Usa" sticker under the spray bottle |
 |
| The "Made in USA" sticker under the splash bottle. |
 |
| The rare "Made in USA" leaflet. NOTE: as you can read, the 105 ml (3.5oz) spray bottle and the 120ml (4oz) splash bottle were NOT produced in USA. |
 |
| The "Made in Usa" leaflet |
 |
| 1980s Spray bottle, 36 ml. |
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| 1970s spray bottle, 36 ml (1.2 oz) |
 |
| Early EdT spray bottle, 69 ml, Note the "80°" sign instead of "80%" |
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| EdT spray bottle, 105 ml |
 |
| EdT Spray bottle, 105 ml, 3.5 oz (year 1984) |
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| Parfum 7.5 ml rechargeable |
 |
| Late 1980s, Parfum, 7.5 ml, refill spray |
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| Parfum, 7.5 ml purse spray with Pochette |
 |
| Rare 25ml / 0.8oz spray bottle (1980s) with removable cap |
 |
| Another uncommon bottle: 0.7 oz / 20 ml (removable cap) with "ParfumsCorp" label |
 |
| The classic "ParfumsCorp" label: although "ParfumsCorp" Era lasted from 1986 to 1993, you can see this label used until 1996....and beyond |
 | ||
| A typical Gucci-label: The Gucci era lasted from 1999 to 2007, but you can see this label since 2001. |
 | ||||||
1990s Spray bottle, 30 ml, with old "fixed" cap.
|
 |
| Eau de Toilette, Year 2007 "Ingredients" |
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.....and thanks to all the fans around the world
who have supported me in this work.
Love you all,
Laura.
(All pictures provided by friends, from unknown sources; if some copyright is violated, please advice us and we'll remove pictures immediately)
---------
....and...
Batch-codes
Year-of-production,
all-you-need-to-know
about vintage perfumes in the following pages:
-GUERLAIN perfumes ( here )
-YVES SAINT LAURENT perfumes ( here )
-CHRISTIAN DIOR perfumes ( here )
-GIORGIO ARMANI Perfumes ( here )
-VAN CLEEF et ARPELS perfumes ( here )
-CHANEL perfumes ( here )
-BVLGARI perfumes ( here )
-HERMES perfumes ( here )
-VERSACE perfumes ( here )
-GIVENCHY perfumes ( here )
-GUY LAROCHE perfumes (here)
-CACHAREL perfumes ( here )
-ROCHAS perfumes (here)
-GUY LAROCHE perfumes (here)
-CACHAREL perfumes ( here )
-ROCHAS perfumes (here)
-JEAN PATOU perfumes (here)
-LANCOME perfumes (here)
-CARON perfumes (here)
-CALVIN KLEIN perfumes (here)
-RALPH LAUREN perfumes (here)
-JEAN PAUL GAULTIER perfumes (here)
-SERGE LUTENS perfumes (here)
-GUCCI perfumes (here)
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What a great and comprehensive tribute to this masterpiece! I know the post is several years old at this point, but I really appreciate your dedication and meticulousness in putting this together. Thanks to you I can confidently date the bottle I just purchased to 1996. What a gem! Thanks again!
ReplyDeleteThanks for this amazing guide!! Loved reading it so much 🙏💗
ReplyDelete