lunedì 28 aprile 2014

AMAZONE (Hermes, 1974): 40-years Tribute.





"Amazone", by Hermès
year 1974 (reportedly reformulated in 1989)
Noses: Maurice Maurin (1974 version); Jean Claude Ellena (1989)

Official olfactive pyramid:
Top Notes: Bergamot, Geranium, Hyacinth, BlackCurrant.
Middle: Muguet, Orris. Rose, Jasmin
Base : Cedarwood, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Amber.
(please note: you will find several other "olfactive pyramids" with different compositions)

Longevity: high (both versions)
Sillage: very high (both versions)
Vote: 10/10 (both versions '1974' and '1989')

mercoledì 23 aprile 2014

GCMS: Amazone (EdT, Hermès, 1974)




AMAZONE , EdT (Hermès, 1974).
GC-MS : analysis and discussion .


( Disclaimer : in order to avoid problems due to Copyrights, we will not disclose "exact formulas" or "exact amount" of  any composition )

(read here: " GC-MS for beginners" )
(read here: "Amazone: a 100-pictures Tribute")

“Amazone” by Hermès (Eau de Toilette, 1974) was analyzed via Gas-Chromatography and Mass Spectrometry ( GC-MS ) in a private lab. The instrument used is manufactured by Perkin-Elmer, the molecular identification was obtained ​via libraries included in the instrument.
GC-MS analysis was performed as a "blind" test: no one knew the name of the perfume, which was revealed later. 
Data collected were analyzed and discussed by Dr. Roberto Dario, chemist, perfumes and raw-materials expert.

martedì 22 aprile 2014

GC-MS for beginners.



(ENGLISH-ITALIAN)

"Gas-Chromatography & Mass-Spectrometry" for beginners.

Let's start with the basics. What is gas-chromatography (abbreviated as "GC"), how does it work, and -this is important- what is GC used for?
In very simple words, the GC is a chemical-analysis technology which allows to separate and identify all the substances present in a complex mixture (i.e., the perfume).
The principle of the GC consists in the fact that substances dissolved in a mixture are different from each other (due to chemical structure, weight, and physical-chemical properties) and, when put in motion along an heated column, the different substances (or “molecules”) will move with different speeds: from the starting line 'A', to the arrival 'B'. This means that the fastest substance X will arrive at the arrival in 5 minutes, while the substance Y will take 9 minutes, and finally the slowest substance Z will need 15 minutes.

mercoledì 16 aprile 2014

"SOS Perfumes" initiative.





Consumers' Initiative for the Protection of Perfumes as a Cultural Asset advocates an alternate modification of Regulation EC No. 1223/2009 on Cosmetics Products, and hereby objects to the changes currently proposed, which would render colourless the range of European perfumery.



venerdì 11 aprile 2014

How to recognize GUY LAROCHE perfumes





Guy Laroche's notable perfumes are: Fidji (year 1966), L'Eau Folle (1970), Drakkar (1972), J'ai Osè (1977), Drakkar Noir (1982), Clandestine (1986), Horizon (1993). 
Most of  scents had the "copyright" indication, including the year ("Copyright Parfums Guy Laroche, year xxxx")

martedì 8 aprile 2014

CORIOLAN (Guerlain, 1998)






Top: Bergamot, lemon, neroli, clary sage,
Heart: Ginger, Juniper, nutmeg, ylang-ylang, 
Base: Patchouli, oakmoss, vetiver, benzoin,
Nose : Jean Paul Guerlain
year: 1998
Longevity high (7 hours)
Sillage: high
Rating: 10/10

An unique bottle, an extraordinary scent, a long and incredible drydown, an unusual history, a resounding commercial failure. "Coriolan", a masculine scent from Guerlain, launched in 1998, was all these things, and even more.
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