Quantifying perfume inside bottles: a practical method.
You bought a perfume or a tester in a non-sealed bottle, or an "used" one.
Or you bought online a perfume sold as "new" and "mint", and you want to check it.
Is the perfume you bought really "new"? Or, if it's "used", how much perfume does it remain in the bottle?
"When I started my interest in perfumes, I remember people said: 'Guerlain? Ah, these Guerlain scents, today.... are not as good as they used to be'. Well, this happened in 1975.
Today, a perfume by Guerlain dated 'year 1975' could be considered as liquid gold".
"Quando cominciai ad interessarmi di profumi, ricordo molto bene che si diceva: Guerlain? Eh, i suoi profumi non sono più buoni, come quelli di una volta....
Era il 1975. Oggi, un profumo di Guerlain del 1975 è da considerarsi oro liquido." (Luca Turin)
L' Instant De Guerlain Extreme pour Homme (i.e. LIDGE), is the "Eau de Parfum
version" of L'Instant de Guerlain (LIDG), two men's fragrances contending the "Trophy of Rivalry" with "Dior Homme" highly-acclaimed twins. But let's face it, both Dior and Guerlain are excellent, and none is better than the other.
What we want to investigate about, however, is the (alleged) "LIDGE reformulation", which (allegedly) took place at an unspecified time, around 2011 or 2012. True or false ?
Try an experiment: in a crowded and noisy room, try to listen to the person in front of you, keeping your eyes open, and then keeping your eyes closed. Is there any difference ?
Of course: you get the impression to hear better.
A show trying to identify Opium bottles through the years.
(Warning: for more infos about YSL batch-numbers and codes, see here )
OPIUM date launch: year 1977. Status: still in production.
1977- 1986: Bottles and boxes with "Yves Saint Laurent, Paris" label style
1986- 1993: Bottles and boxes with "YSL Parfums Corp." and/or "N.Y, Paris" label
1993- 1999: Bottles and boxes with "Sanofi" label. (Sanofi Era started in 1993, ended in 1999)
1999- 2007: Bottles and boxes with "YSL Parfums" and "Neuilly" label ( PPR-GUCCI Era)
(since 2004: 4-digits i.e. 1 number + 3 letters batch code)
(since 2005: long list of "ingredients" printed on boxes)
2008- 2011: Bottles and boxes with generic "YSL" label (without the word "Parfums") AND the "B.R.I" (l'Oreal). label
since 2011: Bottles and boxes with "YSL Beaute" label
(Warning: during transition periods, box and labels were mixed up, and used incorrectly)
" Layering " is the action of "putting layers" (or stratifying) on top of something else.
In perfumery we speak about "layering" when we want to achieve new effects or even "create" new perfumes, simply applying a perfume, and then another just over the previous different scent.
You can "layer perfumes" by adding some sweet to harsh, dry scents, resulting with (theoretically) infinite combinations.
But "Layering" is an amazing resource for another reason, namely to "simulate" , with excellent results, vintage perfumes. How it works? It 's quite easy .
OPIUM by Yves Saint Laurent. the Agony and the Ecstasy of every fragrance-enthusiast.
The history of the "reformulations" involving Opium started many years ago -probably in the mid-80s- but only since 2008-2009 it began a serious -very serious- question.
Reformulations since 2008-2009 were one of the most hot and.discussed topics, and you can find dozens of articles over the Net about it. All contributors, however, agree on a fact: Opium is no longer the same scent than before, opulent, rich and magnificent, a real symbol of a Golden Era.
The aspect we want to explore, however, is an alleged "Year 2013 Reformulation" that - according to some people- made Opium coming back to its ancient days and former glory. True or false?
Does a simple way to study the evolution of a fragrance exist?
Of course it exists, and it does not require any special equipment but the perfume, a clock and some patience.
The technique of "Progressive Smelling" involves spraying perfume at different times and in different places....but smelling it at the same time.
For the DIOR HOMME INTENSE tests see here
For the batch-numbers code ("Christian Dior"), see here
For the "Year 2014" update, see here.
Dior Homme, the Eau de Toilette launched in 2005, had a lot of controversies similarly to its bigger brother EdP "Homme Intense", because of a "reformulation" that took place during previous years (as in the "Intense" version) and sparked speculations of all kinds (and hoarding, and obviously price increases).
In this article, an analysis of the alleged differences between the various years of "Dior Homme" will occur, using a total of NINE different bottles from 2005 up to 2013.
Previously we recognized, batch-by-batch, year-by-year: -GUERLAIN perfumes ( here ) -YVES SAINT LAURENT perfumes ( here ) -CHRISTIAN DIOR perfumes ( here ) -ARMANI Perfumes ( here ) -CHANEL ( here ) Now we will consider another House: Bulgari
Base notes: vetiver, musk, sandalwood, oakmoss, cedar,
Longevity: at least 7 hrs. Sillage: very high.
ABSTRACT Sadly discontinued -and very hard to find now at decent prices- it was considered by connoisseurs as a luxury alternative for Dior's Poison (1985); but at the same time it was considered -by detractors- only as an elegant "spin-off" from Clandestine (by Guy Laroche, 1986)
In any case, luxury and elegance were qualities typical of "Cerruti pour Femme" (1987).
At the end
of the Fifties the first spray bottles appeared, gas-powered, ( called
"atomiseur", or "gas-propellant sprays") , but the real
success of this innovative system arrived only in the Eighties, with the advent
of "natural spray" system, which did not involve artificial gases,
prohibited by law.
Eighties “splash” bottles experienced a gradual decline, until disappearing -almost
completely- at the end of the Nineties. In 2000s splash bottles were very rare,
except for the aftershaves, and now virtually extinct, except for special cases
(usually limited edition bottles).