martedì 29 novembre 2016

SAMSARA, the Legend.

This is my first solo post at "Raiders of the Lost Scent" and the first chapter of a small bunch of fragrances that changed my life. 
I'd like to start with one of my favourite scents since I was a teen: "Samsara" by Guerlain, one of the most spectacular exhibitions of Jasmine and Sandalwood ever created: in my opinion, it's a scent near perfection, and it was an instant love.

mercoledì 23 novembre 2016

How to recognize CARON perfumes (1965-2015)

Dear Sirs,
we are a couple of avid scent collectors, and we stumbled upon your magnificent blog. What a surprise to be able to "decode" so many perfumes at last! 
However, we noticed a big void: Perfumes CARON.
Hence here's a short guide for dating most CARON fragrances from 1965 to 2015. Please note this has to be intended as a tribute to Caron, one of the finest perfume brands ever created, and not for commercial purpose. Caron suffered many highs and downs during its history, but succeeded in maintaining an high standard of quality. Many Carons are really masterpiece of perfumery.
Unfortunately, the huge amount of different boxes and bottles produced for the same scent make the "dating" a bit difficult. Just as an example, more than fifteen different boxes/bottles of "Infini de Caron" were produced! Put simply, you can't rely on shape of the bottle (or textures on the boxes) only.
Here you will learn how to "decode" the batchcodes: not so easy at first sight, but you will soon understand the "pattern". A lot of tutorial pics will help you.
Anyway, please keep this guide free, and without commercial purposes.
Alessandro C.
Gisella B.

martedì 15 novembre 2016

Yesterday and Today: "La Nuit de L'Homme" EdT, by Yves Saint Laurent (guest post)

Hi there! 
This is my first post, here at "Raiders of the Lost Scent". A few months ago I wrote a brief note about "fragrance formulas" reported on the boxes in all Dior perfumes, suggesting them as a method for detecting reformulations (see here). Surprisingly, that post gained a lot of resonance among perfume enthusiasts (you can find discussions and even Youtube videos explaining formulas written on the box, codes, "secret numbers".....).   
Following this track, I accepted to make a funny, similar work, with another acclaimed male scent: La Nuit de l'Homme EdT, by Yves Saint Laurent, performing tests, then checking "formulas" on the boxes and discussing the results. 
Yves Saint Laurent has actually been using "formulas" for a long time, and every YSL scent (EdP, EdT, AfterShave) has its own "formula" at the end of the ingredient listed on the box.

venerdì 4 novembre 2016

GUERLAIN Stickers.

Elena and I were very thrilled listening your idea about dating old Guerlain perfumes relying on stickers only, and we checked our old family archives to find out some useful infos identifying all subtle differences you mentioned. It was amusing, a sort of jigsaw puzzle game, and we found some interesting things. It is not 100% accurate, of course, but it could be useful when you have to rely on stickers only, without any further clue (box, codes...). 
We hope this can helps. 
Elena and Vincenzo"

(All pictures were sent from friends around the web, and were purposedly placed side-by-side to the text: if some copyright infringement occurred, please let us know) 

martedì 4 ottobre 2016

Smell Festival Estate (Carovigno, 5-7 agosto 2016)

Diario di un fine settimana profumato: 
Smell Festival Estate, Carovigno 5-7 agosto, 2016.
by Gabriela Guidetti

Dopo la bellissima esperienza dello Smell Festival a Bologna lo scorso maggio, in questo 2016 ho raddoppiato il piacere di trascorrere un fine settimana profumato in occasione del primo Smell Festival Estate che si è tenuto tra il 5 e il 10 agosto presso il Castello Dentice di Frasso a Carovigno e nella riserva naturale di Torre Guaceto, incantevoli luoghi incastonati nell'Alto Salento pugliese.

lunedì 11 luglio 2016

Cinescent: Rubj VS. Irma la Douce (by Gabriela Guidetti)

Rubj (Vero.Profumo, 2007) 
Irma la Douce (Billy Wilder, 1963)

Nestor: Pardon me, do you have a licence?
Irma (walking her dog): A licence? No.
Nestor: It's a violation of ordinance No. 56
Irma: Oh, usually they let us get away with it. 
Nestor: Not me. And according to the law, you're supposed to keep it on a leash. 
Irma: On a leash?
(from Irma la Douce)

If there is a director that challenged common morality during his age, that was Billy Wilder, the master who directed movies imbued with biting humour, disregarding any rule or convention. 

martedì 21 giugno 2016

SMELL FESTIVAL 2016: a Diary by Gabriela Guidetti.


Magiae Naturae Smell festival 2016, Bologna 21/22 maggio.

Aggiornaremo degli odori, e de'profumi dopo le distillazioni, arte conosciuta, e sua parente, perche da quelle ricerca i suoi odori, e li compone insieme, e fà i profumi, accioche di quà, e di là soavissimamente spiri gli odori suoi 
(tratto da Della Magia Naturale di Gio.Battista della Porta. Libro Undecimo - Il qual da ogni parte spira soavissimi odori – Proemio. Traduzione da latino in volgare)

Parlare di due giorni intensissimi trascorsi avvolta da centinaia di magici odori, non è impresa facile. Io ho purtroppo vissuto solo una parte di questa splendida festa dell'olfatto che è Smell Festival che è iniziata il 18 e si è conclusa il 22 maggio, perciò vi racconterò del fine settimana che mi ha visto interagire con aromi preziosi e magnifiche persone tra le mura antiche e affascinanti del Museo internazionale e biblioteca della Musica nel cuore storico e pulsante della dotta Bologna.

martedì 17 maggio 2016

CINESCENT by Gabriela Guidetti: "Barbarella" vs. "Calandre".

"Barbarella" (Roger Vadim, 1968)
"Calandre" (Paco Rabanne, 1969) 

A perfume should be as imbued with meaning as it is light to wear (Paco Rabanne)

Dildano: Are you typical of Earth women?
Barbarella: I'm about average. 
(from "Barbarella", 1968)

Basque-born and rebel at heart, Paco Rabanne revealed himself as a revolutionary spirit since the beginning of his career in fashion. And despite he wasn't warmly welcomed by his colleagues, as Coco Chanel who called him "the metal-worker of fashion"......

venerdì 29 aprile 2016

"Perfumes I love", by Luca Turin.

Disclosure:  since we are italians, there could be a little bias in what we follow.... and Luca Turin is not a simple name, but "The Name", since his early, magnificent book "Parfums: le Guide", published during 1992-1994.
It was the book which started all (followed by many other works), and a cornerstone, especially for fragrance lovers with a passionate and "scientific" point-of-view. 
So, we are really glad to read Luca's new "perfumed" blog HERE 

"Bentornato, Professore!!" 

giovedì 28 aprile 2016

CINESCENT by Gabriela Guidetti: Chanel Nr.5 VS Moulin Rouge (April 2016)

"Je lance ma collection le 5 mai, cinquième mois de l'année, laissons lui le numéro qu'il porte et ce numéro 5 lui portera chance" (Coco Chanel)

Satine - “Christian, I'm a courtesan. I'm paid to make men believe what they want to believe” (from "Moulin Rouge")

mercoledì 20 aprile 2016

Dior Homme, Dior Homme Intense, and other stories.... (guest post)

Dear Sirs, a few years ago, during the 2000s, I had a brief stint in the cosmetic industry as a chemist. Although I am not particularly fond of those years, I am nonetheless entertained in knowing all debates about "reformulations", analyzing batch-by-batch, month-by-month, picture-by-picture. 
I especially enjoyed the ones regarding to Dior Homme, Dior Homme Intense, Dior Homme Parfum, and generically, all Dior perfumes and cosmetics. And when Andre from "Raiders" pointed out another probable reformulation occurring at the beginning of 2015, I decided to write this short note. Why? Because there is basically a very quick way to understand if a "reformulation" happened. 
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